Hi all,
because i could never figure out how to create a proper bas relief from a 3D model
with ZBrush, i did a bit research and came up with my own technique.
Please note my technique may be not so good for hard surface models,
due to reasons unknown to me.
Hope you like!
https://www.behance.net/gallery/62753223/Bas-reliefs-from-3D-models
Regards
Stefan
The next step would be to combine this technique
with photometric stereo images from family members,
friends or co-workers… 
Regards
Stefan
It’s a really interesting technique, but it would be quicker in most cases to model directly as a relief.
Thank you!
Well, i’m not a skilled sculptor but i could imagine that at least if you model a head or bust
the standard way you would have the option to do quickly front, side and portrait view reliefs.
Regards
Stefan
Hi Stefan,
I understand your meaning, but slicing a 3D model is not the same as low relief modelling. (forgive me for being pedantic, but after 20 years as a low relief sculptor, I defend the discipline!)
For example, when you model something in full 3D, you are modelling shape and form - if a portrait has a rounded forehead, then you must model the forehead with the same roundness.
If you were modelling the same portrait as bas-relief, then you would probably model the forehead flat, but sculpt the edges in such a way that the play of light makes it LOOK rounded.
Slicing a 3D model and scaling it down will not give you the correct interplay of light to create a sense of depth and form within the small space required for bas-relief.
Please take these 2 examples:
This portrait of Richard Jacopic is 40mm in diameter. The model has a minimum sculpture height of 0.05mm, and a maximum of 0.25mm, so ALL the detail of the portrait, AND the sense of depth/ form have to be achieved within a ‘window’ of only 0.2mm. I have included the depth map, so you can see the relationships of each element.
If you were to make this model by slicing a 3D model, the ear, beard, and cheek would be much deeper than the nose, and front of the forehead. This would cause problems when scaled down.
The same is true for this example. The depth of this model is much greater (1mm depth at the same diameter of 40mm), but the principle is still the same.
If this was a slice of a 3D model, the orb. knees and front of the throne would be much deeper than the rest of the model. In this instance, they are all approximately the same depth.
I’m not criticising your method - it’s valid, and works if the overall depth of the final model is unlimited, but the important difference is that you would still be using 3D form to convey depth. Bas-relief modelling conveys depth through light and shadow, NOT 3d form.
Matt
Matt
Hi Matt,
thank you for your detailed explanation and advice, much appreciated!
The reason why i have used so much depth in my examples is that when
i researched the subject i looked at works from Artists in Russia, Vietnam
and China and of course here at ZBCentral. These Artists do however
don’t produce medals or coin reliefs like you have shown, they produce
CNC woodworks mostly. I can of course go much lower with the depth,
when setting a parameter in bump2stl software.
Here are some examples. I can not show JDPaint or ArtForm Pro
examples, because the Artists from Vietnam use mostly Facebook
forums.
[https://www.artstation.com/lexxx69***91;/url]https://vk.com/yura_ttt"]http://www.zbrushcentral.com/showthread.php?185811-Bas-Relief-amp-Other-Works](http://www.zbrushcentral.com/showthread.php?185811-Bas-Relief-amp-Other-Works***91;url)
Best regards
Stefan
I want to contribute with respect to this topic, I have used the bas-relief method of a Russian that now I do not remember the name, it was necessary to use the blender program, then edit the image, the truth is a bit difficult, but I think it is harder to do the relief from scratch, see this photo of the 3D object:
using the option “create mesh from alpha” the result is not good, you can see in the following picture:
Using this other method the result is better but it is more difficult to do it:
Hi,
have you tried my tutorial, or is the second picture the method used form the Russian Artist?
My method is actually easy to use.
Regards
Stefan